When I have them here in my hand, I am impressed.The anodizing looks to be of good quality. Everything is smooth and has an even surface.
The fitment of the parts are as always good, and the adjustment tool looks like a Ninja star:-) This will be a good weapon in the pit when you are about to loose an argument.
Since I use Reflex Racing upper arm pins, I had to polish these a bit with "Autosol" metal polish.
After a few spins in my Dremel they were absolutely the perfect size.
I also test mounted with both Kyosho and PN pins. Both fits fine without any polishing etc.
The total added weight on your car is only 2 grams. 1 gram if you have used the ATM brace before.
The mounting are really straight forward.
The fitment of the parts are as always good, and the adjustment tool looks like a Ninja star:-) This will be a good weapon in the pit when you are about to loose an argument.
Since I use Reflex Racing upper arm pins, I had to polish these a bit with "Autosol" metal polish.
After a few spins in my Dremel they were absolutely the perfect size.
I also test mounted with both Kyosho and PN pins. Both fits fine without any polishing etc.
The total added weight on your car is only 2 grams. 1 gram if you have used the ATM brace before.
The mounting are really straight forward.
- Cut off the stock mounting points with some wire cutters.
- Unscrew the two screws on the top cover.
- Testmount the new mounting points on the brace and to find out what side you want to face forward. One side gives 2 degrees of caster, and the other gives you 4 degrees. Here you can see it in 4 degree caster configuration.
- Push the top brace into its place. It fits perfectly in the holes, but gently force it all the way down.
- If you need to raise your roll centre, this is where you do it. Add shims in the holes to adjust it.
- Place the arms on the brace. Fasten them lightly with the supplied 3mm screws on the inner hole.
- Insert the longer screws in the outer hole. Do not tighten all the way at this point.
- The supplied tool are made for the upper arm pins. Use some stock ones or the ones you have and place them in the position you want. The 4 sides on the tool are marked with 0 , 1 , 2 and 3 holes. These tells you have much static camber you will have. 0 - 3 degrees.
- Insert the tool into the new mounting points. Make sure the key hole in the middle are in the correct place.
- Now you can tighten it down. Use tread-lock if you feel the need for it.
Now you are set. Mount everything together and drive.
Use this mount together with the longer king pins from Reflex Racing. They are made for each other.
The adjustable camber is nice. You can use the stock plastic arms ( they are the lightest available now) Feel free to cut of the inner pivot. Reflex are also coming out with there own arms. Hopefully these will be even lighter than the cut down stock ones.
Unsprung weight is something you really should focus on minimizing. The more unsprung weight, the slower suspension movement you get.
The caster settings are one of the strongpoints of this front end. You get maximum 4 degrees of caster, but this really! helps dialing your car in.
You get a much more stable, straight tracking car with more caster. You get away with more toe out if you add caster. The gravity will always try to straighten the wheels. You can say that caster adds self centering to your front end.
You also get added camber gain.
The camber adjustment are really solid. I have not needed any tread-lock to fasten them good enough.
On track this front end really rocks. The adjustments you can do on it really helps you dialing in your car for every track conditions.
Just try it and you want be disappointed!
Hey what steering knuckle are you using on the car? What's the offset on the wheels and how do u use the camber adjustment tool?
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